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Jims mega long trip to Donetsk - Mega long post

Started by NorfolkJim, February 27, 2010, 05:33:58 PM

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NorfolkJim

You can be sure that if there's any easy way or a hard way to follow Fulham into Europe then you can count on me to turn a simple away trip into a real adventure. So as the sensible souls who had booked with the Flyer contemplated their direct flight to Donetsk in the morning – Norfolk Jim was en route for Stansted once work was over Wednesday intent on taking the last flight out, which just happened to be going to Istanbul overnight.
One tip for all those going to Istanbul – remember it has TWO airports – BEFORE you set out from home. As such I found myself in a surprisingly cold and wet Sabiha Goken airport at 4am on a Thursday morning (Sabiha seems to be Turkeys version of Stansted) only to find that getting to my intended destination, Istanbuls Attaturk airport is no easy task, and that's when the buses are running!  Not only that but they want £10 just to let me into Turkey.

Amazingly quite by chance, on the same flight as me was Big Eddie the Kebab shop owner in my home town! (population 3000) returning home to Turkey after selling up in Norfolk! He quickly sorted me out with a friendly local to set out to the city centre by local bus where I could get an airport bus on to Attaturk – It was at this point that I knew my luck was in – Fulham would win!

Istanbul reminds me very much of China, the decrepit buses, the bustling markets and the run down flats. It was a chance to look at the city and catch a glimpse of some of the sights on the 3 hour trip between the two airports. It turned out my new Turkish friend was off to see Galatasaray in their Europa encounter with Athletico. He even humoured me in my claim to like Besiktas, the Fulham of Istanbul. They play in black & white at a quaint old stadium which holds the world record for noise generated. I just had time to view the ground which nestles in a valley running down to the Bosphorus.

Next it was on to Kiev. Kiev Airport is uncomfortably straddled between the Soviet era and the modern day. The impressive but badly organised main terminal is inhabited by a sea of Borats who lambaste you with offers of Taxis. Their sister might also have been on offer but I wasn't hanging around to find out. I hurried around to the Domestic terminal, which looks frighteningly like a huge block of public toilets. Still stuck in the Soviet cold war age, its kind of quaint in a run down sort of way with its broken doors, ugly tiled exterior and a range of little stalls and kiosks that would never be tolerated at even the most parochial of UK airports – even Norwich.

I was glad to get on from Kiev, its bleak and grey, coated in frozen snow like a concrete overblanket. At last I find myself around other Fulham fans also making their own way to Donetsk. To say its airport is basic would be to understate it but at last I was in town and was met by a very pretty young woman from our messageboard guide tout. I did feel a bit like a dirty perv hiring an escort young enough to be my daughter but unwise as I thought it was for a pretty girl to meet a middle aged English footie yob migh be, it was good to be taken directly to both my hotel and from there to dinner and on to the ground all as promised. It was nice to have dinner with a pretty girl – I just hope the wife don't find out!

Donbass stadium is amazing. It really is as if a giant UFO has landed in what is otherwise a pretty grey, industrial and somewhat run down city. At least the prices across Donetsk were very reasonable. I cant imagine I'll ever see a ground like it, searchlights scraping the sky like some kind of war time raid and passionate Donetsk fans all around, drinking the nearby supermarkets dry in avoidance of the alcohol ban.

It was getting pretty cold by now, but no so cold that I could wear my shirt. In spite of warnings, I felt safe enough walking to the ground. Maybe I look East European? I waved goodbye to my guide and 25 Euros and headed into the cage that surrounded our enterance. These Donetsk people must be very friendly, very touchy feely, needing 3 friskings to get inside!

One negative of the stadium is that Ukrainians have clearly never heard of Urinals, so using the, ahem! Facilities, I was always kind of uncomfortable, suspecting that I'd somehow wandered into the ladies and would shortly be ejected as a peeing peeping Tom.

I was maybe a bit disappointed to find that once again we had been given a nice cage to sit in with fishing net sprawled out ahead of us. Its quite a sight, an amazing stadium every bit a match for the Stadio Olympico. Once again it made St James' park feel near to the action by comparison – Vertigo sufferers watch out? The stadium seemed slow to fill but by kick off there was quite a cauldron brewing. It's a pretty intimidating atmosphere for the visiting team and the sea of Orange and black is strangely menacing – But compared to CSKA Sofia and Basel, the Ultras had little to show in comparison. I expected a greater demonstration of passion but maybe they too got frisked 3 times.

Shakhtar are brilliant and Fulham are basically defending from the word go. We get a goal with our first meaningful attack. I had thought they looked short so I was interested to read Bredes comments on the web site as regards using his height to our advantage. Pretty it wasn't but our boys really dug in and kept them out. Nerve wracking at times I still felt immensely proud to see Fulham taking on and holding their own against one of the better teams in Europe. Our 3-400 travelling fans kept up a barrage of sound for most of the game but I doubt it was audible above the home support.
When Shakhtar equalised it was no less than they deserved but we held on for a great win over 2 legs, must surely be our greatest pair of results ever.

I cant comment too much on Fulham tactics or individual players – we all stood up all game long and much of the time I was too caught up in the emotion of it all to be too objective. Others can do that and I'll leave that to them – Pity about Murphys moment of madness – we'll miss him.

We were not locked in long but like Roma there didn't seem to be enough bus spaces to get us all back – somehow I think we all got on – I managed it and then bussed back to city centre and the fairly good Hotel Liverpool. Many of the Fulham faithful then set off to celebrate all night long – I met them staggering in at 5am while I was staggering out on the way to the airport.

Strangely I slept for most of the flight home – Kiev – Istanbul – 2 buses – Istanbul – Stansted and home for 1am on Saturday morning and a good cup of tea at last.
Mrs Jim, the sly old goat had been on a shopping spree in my absence, knowing full well I'd want to go to Turin and not be in any position to complain about wild irresponsible spending!

Later today I'll watch the recording and think about what is to come – Juventus away – Who would have thought it Juve Vs Fulham. I'm booked – Are you?

See you there

Jimpav

Great report Jim, thanks for sharing.

I'll keep my eyes peeled for you in Torino.

Bet you can't wait for Norwich to get back in the premiership- all these mad away trips!

NorfolkJim

Quote from: Jimpav on February 27, 2010, 05:50:04 PM
Great report Jim, thanks for sharing.

I'll keep my eyes peeled for you in Torino.

Bet you can't wait for Norwich to get back in the premiership- all these mad away trips!

Would love to see Norwich get up there again - a match thats less than two hours away for once. They have a pretty loyal support, especially away from home.


SuffolkWhite

Guy goes into the doctor's.
"Doc, I've got a cricket ball stuck up my backside
"How's that?"
"Don't you start"

LBNo11

...what a good read, thanks for that Jim - oh, and I won't tell your wife  about your escort :o
Twitter: @LBNo11FFC

NorfolkJim

I forgot to mention how the Donetsk fans showed us their bums - but that was pretty forgetable.
Quite a few wanted to swap scraves afterwards. No one could call them bad losers


finnster01

Thanks so much for that Mr Jim. An Outstanding read :D  :D
If you wake up in the morning and nothing hurts, you are most likely dead

White Noise

A really enjoyable read Jim, many thanks.

Of the Europa trips you have done this season what order would you put them in in terms of how they rate for the overall experience?


RidgeRider

Jim, really enjoyed your piece. Thanks for writing it and for posting it here. Please stick around and post often. Thanks again!


NorfolkJim

#9
Quote from: White Noise on February 27, 2010, 10:06:03 PM
A really enjoyable read Jim, many thanks.

Of the Europa trips you have done this season what order would you put them in in terms of how they rate for the overall experience?



Thats just it, they were each so different and had differing qualities. For pure pleasure I think Vilnius. It was like a leisurely weekend city break in the sun. Roy and the players wandering around the old town taking in the sights. A truely bizarre ground and the "Angry Bears" Ultras dancing troup.
CSKA will always stick in my mind for the team welcome put on by their fans. The amazing volume and the organisation all around the ground with nearly everyone involved somehow. TV didnt do it justice, it made the hairs on the back of my neck stick up. And who could forget the Riot Cop with little Oliver. It was so surreal these riot cops and the familial Fulham fans. Plus the bar swathed in Fulham flags.
Roma I'll remember mostly for the crazy OTT experience of being bussed to the ground and the sheer number of Fulham fans who went. It was kind of spoiled by their bent ref but so Italian. Maybe the Mafia had it down for a home win. I've "done" Rome as a tourist before and its changed a bit, they seem to charge for everything now.
Perm I just couldn't do.
Basel felt kind of unreal is the snow and a bit lonely as I went straight there and straight out again on the train so didnt really meet anyone but it was perhaps our most convincing performance of the tournament (Shakhtar was a rtougher game though). Being Switzerland it was an efficient, comfy and costly trip. I've been to Switzerland many times so for me it wasn't a highlight to go there yet again.
Then for Shakhtar I think I'll remember the stadium above all else
The best thing though is that for 99% of the time our fans have been a credit to Fulham and to English football which means that these Euro away trips have been lots of fun and nothing else which is great IMO



Tom

Thanks for sharing your trip with us Jim. I love hearing about that kind of stuff. Hopefully when they showed you there bums you got to see some nice lady ass.    :D
Fulham for life!

Logicalman

Yet again, we have found an absolute diamond of a writer in our very own ranks.

Thanks Jim, your descriptions of events and places make it so visual, and the humor is just on my level - basic!! I hope you realize how appreciated you are by the members on here.  Looking forward to the Juve report with relish.


Lighthouse

Really who needs to read papers when we have a great travel writer to add to Ridge and his Fitness/Racing blogs.

I felt I was transported there with you and was standing right next to you in the urinals. Which was an experience I could have done without. But nevertheless a fun and informative piece to add to the stock pile of memorys I never made but think I did. Very Blade Runner.
The above IS NOT A LEGAL DOCUMENT. It is an opinion.

We may yet hear the horse talk.

I can stand my own despair but not others hope

NogoodBoyo

Thank god Frodo, Samwise Gangee and our very own Jim made it back to the Shire in one piece. 
Lovely essay, Jim.  Five stars and a quick snog from Mrs Williams the teach behind the bicycle shed, itis.
Nogood "writes like Dylan, he do" Boyo

FatFreddysCat



KiwiFulham

Great report Jim, made me smile on number of ocassions. Loving your comittment!

NorfolkJim

Glad its been of interest to you. Looking forward to Turin next but it should be a straightforward flight into and out of Turin. For those who like to make it the hard way, Alitalia are doing reasonable flights to Turin from LHR via Rome.
I once booked up to fly Stansted - Derry - Liverpool - (train to Manchester) - Dublin - Stansted for an away game at Liverpool only for the date to be changed! Thats the problem with independent travel - these days you book ahead at your peril or wait at your expence.

leonffc



Chopper

Great write up Jim - I'm very jealous.

Did you know Alex Ferguson (The Traveller)? I reckon you'd have got on.
Sold my soul to the Green Pole

Scrumpy

Thanks Jim, really good report.

May see you in Turin. 8)
English by birth, Fulham by the grace of God.